Pulse DIY how to 1
This is a video series of how to prepare your Denon 103... cartridge for mounting it in your DIY Pulse body.
 
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Pulse DIY how to 2
You can just cut the corners off and mount in the Pulse DIY body but the excess plastic will hold back some of the performance available.
Pulse DIY how to 3
Use lead tape on the counter weight to help your arm adjust for the extra mass of the finished cartridge. It also helps to damp arm resonations!
The picture below is how I prepare a 103 for potting in the DIY.
Picture that is background in second video is all you have to trim to put it in the Pulse DIY body.

Note, it is similar (I do more for Guard) to the prep I do for the Guard.

This allows for 20 pieces of lead to be fitted in the body along with the Denon motor.

14 pieces of lead go in the front section (foreword of the mounting holes) of the body, and 6 (3 on each rear side) pieces in the rear section (behind the mounting holes) under the output pins.
 

DIY HOW TO

CAUTION: when attempting this procedure it is very easy to ruin your cartridge I take no responsibility for your actions. I offer a potting service for this procedure it is $60-. Take your time as patience will prevent accidents. Read completely and understand before starting. Remove Denon serial number sticker and put it on the outside top of the Pulse body.
See videos on my web site or go to YouTube for de-body instructions.
For the DIY you can follow the instructions below (recommended for best sound as the more plastic removed and more lead inserted the better the sound) or just nip the inner corners so the body will drop into the shell and install lead into the front portion only, then tape up the back and pot with epoxy, very simple and weighs ~15 grams..
After your cartridge is de-bodied you must trim off the excess plastic from (this plastic and the body is part of what gives bad sound to Denon’s) the front, both sides at the front and front corners, also trim the back sides all the way back to the start of the soldiered pins. You should use flush cut cutters in the front and back to leave as little plastic to trim (use exacto knife or grinder) as possible. Always try to get the plastic as flush as possible so the lead can get all the way in to the bottom and touch metal and cartridge. Do NOT force the lead into the sides as you can damage the wires, just drop in front of pins and tap the body gently to get them to move.
On the rear cut use the flush cutters (I used side cutters in the video I have since changed as there is less work trimming with the side cutters) they can cut and break off the plastic under the pins in one cut, but be careful of those tiny wires on either side next to the pins. When test fitting it will be obvious where any side trimming will need to be done as the lead will not fall all the way to the bottom, be careful how you hold the cartridge as the tiny wires on the sides can be broken with just a touch. Now test fit the body and lead to find out where you need to trim any plastic left by the cutters in the back sides and front or front sides. When fitted install the lead shot 3 each on the sides towards back under the pins. Make sure the lead falls on to the aluminum body. The front section now gets 14 pieces (video shows 3) totaling 20 inside with the body, for those doing the Guard version there is also 20 pieces epoxied into the sides before you get it. The lead (you do not have to use it) is a micro damper that gives the Paradox a leg up (more like a LEAP ahead) of everyone else. Tape the back closed with painters tape (provided along with plastic bag for mixing epoxy in) keep the back of the Denon flush with the back of the Pulse body or as close as you can get it. You will see how much trimming there is in the picture on my site. With epoxy mixed (if mixed in plastic bag just puncture the tip of a corner and you can use the bag to drip the epoxy out one drip at a time) drip into front and sides until lead and rear pins are covered. I like to fill until I have reached the top pins in the back and the bottom of the notch in the front see pictures on web site. Last caution, with lead in place and back taped be sure that the Denon (what's left of it) is flat and even in the body (if not pull the tape back and make it so) then epoxy. Do NOT drip epoxy on cantilever. DO NOT USE JB WELD AS IT IS MAGNETIC AND CAN/WILL MIGRATE INTO THE COILS KILLING CARTRIDGE. Now you have one of the best cartridges in the world. Total weight ~16 grams.
See video on you tube or web site a must. Thanks, Terence 760-245-8435 paradoxent@verizon. www.paradoxpulse.com

DIY minimum

Preparing your Denon motor to go into the DIY body only requires this much trimming.
You then insert the lead only into the front portion under the cantilever front and sides. 20 pieces of lead will be provided for you, how much you use is up to you. I recommend all 20 and the extra trimming but it is dangerous handling the motor that much.
When I pot for you I do the above and insert 20 pieces of lead just like on the Guard.

Is the Pulse cartridge too heavy for my tone arm?
What about compliance?

Which Pulse cartridge sounds best? Depends on YOUR system.

Which Denon/Pulse cartridge sounds best? This question is not easily answered and can only be answered (this is my opinion you understand) with some knowledge of your system.
If you are using a SUT (Step Up Transformer) or have a MC (moving coil) pre-amp with a fixed load of 100 to 200 ohms you should stay with the 103. If you can select loading the 103R is the better choice when loaded at 400 to 700 ohms. I have one customer and he loves his R and it is loaded at 220 ohms. The 103 sounds great at loads like 100 to 600 ohms also but also can sound good with SUT's and lower loads. Experiment for your self as systems vary greatly along with personal taste.
I hear all the time that you can load a SUT but the cartridge is what needs the loading (the load for the cartridge is the SUT's input impedance, you can go lower by strapping resistance across the input but not higher) and most SUT have an input impedance of 30 to 150 ohms. The 103R will not sound its best (the sound of the R NOT properly loaded is much thinner than it should be and the imaging is more like vapors as opposed to rock solid) using those loads, which is why I recommend the 103 for people using fixed loads (100-220 ohms) that are not selectable or SUT's. I have customers that love their R through a SUT,  and because the impedance can vary a lot my guess is that the SUT had a input static resistance of around 300 ohms or so. Once more this is my opinion only although I know the R loves 680 ohms for me.
This link is a must read for those using SUT that want to load them.

http://www.vinylengine.com/step-ups-and-mc-cartridges.shtml

No it is not! It will work great. Just get a heavier weight.

Every tone arm that works properly will work for the Paradox Pulse cartridge, at least I don't know of one that won't work yet. Read the testimonials, they are just a fraction of the success being had by Pulse cartridges.
A lot of folks get caught up far to much in the specifications especially compliance and applying that to their arm cartridge combination.
Notes
*Denon publishes their dynamic compliance specifications relative to 100Hz . The actual compliance at 10Hz will be higher.
My own note is that you should try to get closer to 8Hz as opposed to 10Hz because it is one octave away from 16 cycles which can be found on some albums and it is also one octave away from 4Hz which is defiantly rumble. Just my opinion.
The above Denon note is something most Denon 103 users do not actually know, probably why I am asked this question so much.
Certainly matching the arm and cartridge is important but rarely if ever will any one have every actual/factual specification that applies so that the marriage could be done based specifications alone.
The most common problem that will occur is that the counter weight is not heavy enough to off set the weight of the Pulse cartridge ~16 grams.
There are many people selling heavier counter weights in various shapes and sizes on ebay, but I like to get lead tape (the kind you use on golf clubs and racquets) and apply it to the stock counter weight as it also has the benefit of damping arm resonations and improving tone arm performance also.

The picture to the right shows two different tonearm weights with lead tape, lead tape, and the Michell weights for the Rega RB 300 tonearm.

Many older tone arms use to come with 2 counter weights, heavy and light. This practice stopped because of cost considerations not because their tone arm can't handle a certain cartridge.

The Pulse cartridge can be enjoyed by all and once you hear what they can do the only other cartridge you are likely to try is your Pulse re-cantilevered with a Sapphire cantilever and new micro ridge diamond as the Denon's motor shows off just how good it really is. The Pulse R is a true world class performer with a Sapphire cantilever and micro ridge diamond.

The following can be found @ http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php?m=Denon  
Denon publishes their dynamic compliance specifications relative to 100Hz . The actual compliance at 10Hz will be higher.

Cantilevers?

I get asked which should I do first a re-cantilever or new body?
Do the body first and break in the cartridge, then you can enjoy the new cantilever immediately without adding any additional wear to it.
If you already have 100 hours (100 hours is the minimum before the R or 103 start to sound great) or more still do the body first as you do not risk damaging your new cantilever and stylus.
 
I like the Sapphire cantilever BEST but the Boron is an extremely close second and either is a bit better than the Ruby. The line contact (LC) diamond is great but the micro ridge (MR) is just better yet.

These Ruby cantilevers came from Soundsmith
 
I do use and recommend new cantilevers and diamonds but Soundsmith takes 14 weeks plus, just terrible.

I can get yours done usually under 3 weeks.

Sapphire with LC is $400-
Sapphire with MR is $500-

Cheers